Launchmetrics AW23 report: Dior and Burberry are big hits, but what else made an impact?
Launchmetrics SpotlightChristian Dior, Burberry, Prada, and Gucci were the biggest attention grabbers on the runways during the recent Big Four shows, a new report has shown with Launchmetrics, assessing the total number of views for each show, the number of downloads and online media impact value (MIV).
Its photographers shot over 84,000 images at 675 shows and found that Dior got the highest number of views at 87,000, with a post-Alessandro Michele Gucci, Burberry under Daniel Lee, Bottega Veneta, Givenchy, Miu Miu, Chanel, Prada, Ferragamo and Balmain making up the rest of the top 10.
Dior was also at the top of the list for the number of downloads, followed by Burberry, Ferragamo, Gucci, Givenchy, Prada, David Koma, Miu Miu, Diesel and Fendi.
As for the MIV that they all generated, this relates to online placements and assigns a monetary amount to every post, interaction, and article. and which strategies create the most return on investment.
Burberry was top this time at $1.6 million, with Prada on $1.3 million, Gucci, Bottega Veneta and Christian Dior on $1.1 million each and Diesel, Fendi, Tory Burch, Ferragamo and Dolce & Gabbana all coming in below $1 million (although not too far below that figure).
However, the top viewed look of Fashion Month didn't belong to any of these labels. Instead, it was from Chanel with its opening look (a rose-pattern coat). Meanwhile the look that was downloaded the most belonged to Gucci, with its -- praised and criticised -- opening look of a barely-there bikini top.
And Proenza Schouler had the most impactful look, according to Launchmetrics with a nipped-in waist jacket and skirt worn by Chloe Sevigny.
It's interesting that with the fairly conservative Chanel coat being the item that got the most views, the other four top viewed looks were all relatively conservative as well.
Dior’s white shirt and slim skirt, Saint Laurent’s sharp suit, Burberry’s all-ecompassing coat with faux fur collar and Marni’s yellow top and easy tailored trousers all saw big hits.
Of course, the fact that each of these was the first item in those shows is also significant and suggestive of the fact that the labels overall were what drew higher traffic rather than those looks specifically.
So it's interesting four of the five most downloaded looks were different and a bit more adventurous. That opening Gucci look was top, as mentioned, and the Burberry coat did well in second place. In fact, Burberry did very well overall with a check sweater plus wrap skirt and massive trapper hat third, and an asymmetric hem dress featuring the revived Burberry knight emblem fourth. In fifth place was Prada’s grey coat and embellished skirt that has been widely featured across international media.
We’ve already mentioned Proenza Schouler topping the MIV list and it was joined in the top five by a Bottega Veneta white shorts suit and red boots, Diesel’s shredded denim dress and coat, a red evening dress by Valli and Jil Sander’s cherry motif sleeveless top.
Other Launchmetrics insights from the shows included the overall Big Four fashion weeks generating $731 million in MIV in total. That was a 24% rise on AW22 and reflected the newsworthy moments on the runways.
Launchmetrics said that this season, “some of those memorable moments were comprised of Dior’s fresh take on the 1950s existentialist style, the giant and open to the public Moncler ‘Art of Genius’ event in London or Burberry’s most anticipated LFW show”.
It also said that influencers were a key presence during Fashion Month and that celebrities from the APAC region were key, especially those from South Korea.
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