Delpozo opts out of London Fashion Week
The fashion world will have to wait a little longer for the first runway show from German designer Lutz Huelle as creative director of Delpozo. As confirmed by FashionNetwork.com, the Spanish ready-to-wear brand will not make an appearance on London's runways during the British capital's next fashion week, set to take place from 12 to 17 September.
Owned by the Perfumes y Diseño group since 2011, the Madrid-based luxury label does not appear on the official runway calendar for the upcoming event. "We won't be showing at the next fashion week," representatives from the label confirmed to FashionNetwork.com, when asked about a potential presentation in London, where Delpozo was expected to show its collection for Spring/Summer 2020. No details concerning the location of the label's next runway show, or a possible change of format, have been provided as of yet.
The most recent pieces from the brand to hit the runway are therefore those made for Fall/Winter 2019, a transition collection created by the Delpozo atelier under the supervision of its new creative director, Lutz Huelle. Seeing as, strictly speaking, the collection was not the first to be completely designed by the successor to Josep Font, who stepped down from his role as creative director in September of last year, the brand opted for a discreet presentation at the Ricardo Grassi Showroom during Paris Fashion Week, at the beginning of March.
At that time, Delpozo stated that the first collection from its new designer, who was officially appointed in December, would be presented during the cruise collection show season. Nonetheless, the label's promised Resort 2019 collection, which was supposed to herald the start of a new era at the brand, has not yet seen the light of day.
Delpozo's absence on the London calendar this September marks the second consecutive season that the brand has decided not to show its collections on the runway. The last show from the fashion house founded by Jesús del Pozo in 1974 took place in London, where the brand operates a flagship store, and was the final presentation made by the label under the direction of Josep Font. The show was the second that Delpozo had held in the British capital after 10 seasons presenting its collections in New York. As for the Spanish brand's current creative director's namesake womenswear brand, Huelle has confirmed that it will show its latest collection in Paris on 27 September.
Changing times at Delpozo
Delpozo's new creative director and its time-out from the London catwalk are not the only changes that have taken place at the Spanish brand over the last few months. At the beginning of June, Perfumes y Diseño President Pedro Trólez announced that Delpozo was going up for sale. Fully owned by the group specialised in creating and distributing luxury fragrances, the brand set out in search of investors with expertise in the fashion sector. At the time, Trólez said that he was open to selling either a majority or a minority stake in the brand, which is on track to achieve 10 million euros in sales this year.
The announcement came after months of strategic manoeuvres made by Delpozo, during which the Madrid-based company confided the distribution of its accessories to Italian luxury wholesaler Massimo Bonini, passed its wholesale business on to the Ricardo Grassi showroom and transferred part of its manufacturing operations to Italy. In Spain, the company announced that it was laying off 20 employees at the beginning of January.
Recently, Delpozo's growth has been supported by its expansion in the Middle East and South Korea, where the brand has secured deals with the Chalhoub Group and KLH International, respectively. Currently the label operates three flagship stores, in Madrid, London and Dubai, and is present on 34 markets at 80 points of sale.
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